Yes, you heard that right: it is now possible to cycle all the way between
two of Japan's major islands, Honshu and Shikoku, by bicycle - via what is now
perhaps the nation's premier cycle route: the Shimanami Kaido.
"Shima" means island and "nami" means waves, and the name
is appropriate: you cycle across several of the former and directly above the
latter, skipping across the water like a two-wheeled stone, via a series of
spectacular bridges like the one shown here. In return for the great views, you
toss a 50-yen or 100-yen coin into a basket as a toll for each bridge. The
route is exceptionally well marked; it's virtually impossible to get lost. More
to the point, it's an easy 77-kilometer cycle: the only hills you will
encounter are the entrances to each bridge - which, admittedly, can reach
dizzying heights, with the kind of views you'd expect.
Shimanami Kaido Bikeway runs between Onomichi
in Hiroshima prefecture and Imabari
in Ehime,
hopping across several islands of the Seto Inland Sea.
Understand
This 70km bikeway connects Onomichi
with the islands of Mukaishima, Innoshima (for the pirate Suigun Castle),
Ikuchijima (for Kosan-ji), Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima, ending in Imabari
on Shikoku. You're welcome to walk or jog any length of the
bridge, but cycling is the best way to go. The route consists of wide dedicated
lanes for bikes and pedestrians, typically alongside but separated from the car
roadway. Special bike lanes have been created to provide reasonable approaches
to each of the modern bridges connecting the islands.
Prepare
Bikes can be rented or
dropped off at any of the 14 bike depot locations along the route (Y500 to
rent, Y1000 deposit, deposit forfeited if you return to a depot other than the
one you rented at). Bike depots have a variety of bicycles including 8-speed
road bikes, 3-speed "upright" bikes, and electric assist bikes
(electric assist must be returned to the original depot it was rented from).
Helmets are available but sizes may be limited. The bike depot at the Onomichi
port (7AM-6PM, +81 0848-22-5332) is located in the parking structure to the
right of the Green Hill Hotel, located opposite the JR Train Station. On
weekends, you should plan to rent your bike before 10am if you are starting
from Onomichi.
An excellent English language
brochure is available at the bike depots but unfortunately is not available
online. The brochure provides riders with side-trip directions to sights on
each island and alternate routes for those who desire more strenuous rides. The
brochure also has information on rest stops, bike depot locations, public
transport (if you get tired) and other facilities and there are many choices along
the way for lunch, snacks, and other stops. If staying overnight in Onomichi,
it is recommended that you pick up a brochure from the bike depot the night
before your trip.
Get
in
The Green Hill Hotel is also
the location of the ferry connecting Onomichi with Mukaishima, Innoshima, and
Ikuchijima/Setoda. Serious bikers intent on completing the route in a day could
do so, but the route is best enjoyed over the course of two days or in one day
by taking a ferry from Onimichi to Setoda (bypassing the two most rural islands
on the route). Ferries leave Onomichi once an hour starting at 7:20 in the
morning; the trip to Setoda is 40 minutes. Tickets are available in the ferry
terminal behind the Green Hill Hotel.
Walk/Bike
The main route is generally
flat except for reasonable and well-graded approaches to the bridges and one
large hill on Oshima Island. A small toll is required at the entrance of each
bridge, ranging from Y50 per rider to Y200; a discount pass is available at the
bike depots if you will be riding across all the bridges.
The "recommended"
main route distances are
- Mukaishima (9.2 km)
- bridge (3.2 km)
- Innoshima (9.3 km)
- bridge (3.2 km)
- Ikuchijima (11.8 km or 5.7 km if you arrive at
Setoda port)
- bridge (4.2 km)
- Omishima (6 km)
- bridge (1.2 km)
- Hakatajima (1.9 km)
- bridge (3 km)
- Oshima (11.4 km)
- bridge (6.4 km)
- Imabari - endpoint at Sunrise Itoyama bike
depot.
There are a limited number of
buses between Sunrise Itoyama and the Imabari JR Train Station; buses depart
Sunrise Itoyama at 8:55am, 10:10am, 1:40pm, 4:10pm and 6:15pm. If traveling in
the direction of Onomichi to Imabari, Kosan-ji Temple and Hirayama Ikuo Museums
on Ikuchijima Island are about 4 km along the main route. On Omishima Island,
in order to visit the Omishima
Museum and the Oyamazumi Jinja Shrine Treasure
Hall you must make a round trip (15 km total) off the recommended main route.
If taking two days for the ride, Tatara on Omishima is a good place to spend
the night before/after this side trip to Oyamazumi Shirine.